If my 04h00 alarm clock hadn’t woken me, the nearby campsite’s blaring car alarm at 04h02 certainly would have. Dani rolled over, not looking too amused with the situation, and we each began layering up in anticipation for a cold morning further north. We piled into the Jeep and pulled out of our campsite, turning out of Tunnel Mountain Campground and onto the main road at 04h21 exactly. Not a word was exchanged until we got to the highway a few minutes later, when I asked her to verify the destination for our morning. I had debated the night before between Banff’s famous Lake Louise and an equally gorgeous but slightly less popular Moraine Lake. Ultimately deciding to devote my shutter time to Moraine, we turned our compass there and continued with the hour-plus drive north up Alberta’s Highway 1. The highways are unlit and there was not another soul in sight, so I ran my 30” roof-mounted LED bar to blast through the darkness of the night and illuminate the road ahead of us.
Shortly after 05h00 we pulled off the highway at the exit for Lake Louise, following the signage for Moraine Lake another 14km away. Signs warned RVs of winding narrow roads, and I slowed the Jeep as we climbed up further into the mountains, eyes peeled for any kind of wildlife that may have thought it a smart idea to jump out in front of us. When we arrived at the tiny Moraine Lake parking lot it was still pitch black; almost all of the spots were empty, and as we parked another vehicle arrived and a photographer hopped out with his tripod. I could have guessed we wouldn’t be alone, but I was interested to see just how many people were already up at the lake’s famous overlook. Using my headlamp as a guide Dani and I found the sign for the Consolation Trail which would take us up the rocky mountainside to the perfect vista to watch the sun rise from. Within ten minutes we had reached a stone patio area, surrounded by tall pine trees, and were looking out over the most beautiful lake I believe I’ve ever seen. Moraine glowed back at us from under the cloudy morning skies with a saturated blue that I struggle to even describe. I set up two cameras on separate tripods and began shooting, capturing early morning light and waiting the sun cresting the horizon behind us, checking my compass and verifying that the first rays of light would illuminate the Ten Peaks mountain chain across the lake. This iconic vantage point is known as the “20 Dollar View”, as it was once portrayed on the back of the Canadian $20 bill.
Shortly after 05h00 we pulled off the highway at the exit for Lake Louise, following the signage for Moraine Lake another 14km away. Signs warned RVs of winding narrow roads, and I slowed the Jeep as we climbed up further into the mountains, eyes peeled for any kind of wildlife that may have thought it a smart idea to jump out in front of us. When we arrived at the tiny Moraine Lake parking lot it was still pitch black; almost all of the spots were empty, and as we parked another vehicle arrived and a photographer hopped out with his tripod. I could have guessed we wouldn’t be alone, but I was interested to see just how many people were already up at the lake’s famous overlook. Using my headlamp as a guide Dani and I found the sign for the Consolation Trail which would take us up the rocky mountainside to the perfect vista to watch the sun rise from. Within ten minutes we had reached a stone patio area, surrounded by tall pine trees, and were looking out over the most beautiful lake I believe I’ve ever seen. Moraine glowed back at us from under the cloudy morning skies with a saturated blue that I struggle to even describe. I set up two cameras on separate tripods and began shooting, capturing early morning light and waiting the sun cresting the horizon behind us, checking my compass and verifying that the first rays of light would illuminate the Ten Peaks mountain chain across the lake. This iconic vantage point is known as the “20 Dollar View”, as it was once portrayed on the back of the Canadian $20 bill.
"The $20 View" - Lake Moraine, Alberta
A few minutes after the sun rose we became aware of the crowds of people showing up around us. At the same time, in some sort of satirical form, Mother Nature rolled in heavy clouds in front of the Ten Peaks and the view people came to see was almost completely gone. Dani and I packed up and returned to the car, finding the tiny parking lot that was empty upon our arrival completely full of RVs and rental mini-vans. We drove a few miles back down Moraine Lake Road, passing countless vehicles making their way to the dead end parking lot, before turning left at a T, our next destination set for the world-famous Lake Louise. Thankfully due to our early start we were able to park at the main lot by the lake without issue; even an hour later we’d likely have had to park at a remote lot a few miles away then hopped on a shuttle to view the lake. Throwing my camera bag over my shoulder as Dani shed an insulating layer, we walked past the regal Fairmont hotel and made our way to the rocky shores of Lake Louise. With the sun still relatively low in the sky, the refraction of light against the glacial water left us with the most indescribably gorgeous hues of blue and green I had ever seen. We took photos for a while as crowds of people began piling into the waterfront area, then decided to head down into the downtown Lake Louise area for a small café breakfast. We found a gluten friendly menu at Laggan’s Mountain Bakery and enjoyed our time staring out the window at a busy parking lot with seemingly endless mountaintops in the background. Hopping back in the car we made the hour drive back to Tunnel Mountain campground, arriving at 10h30 and taking a multiple hour nap in the tent to make up for the exceptionally early start to our day.
 Living, Not Existing |  Lake Louise, Alberta |
Waking up drenched with sweat in the early afternoon heat I began looking up activities for our afternoon. While I had made a map of notable places to visit, we were enjoying our “choose your own adventure” vibe and went to work debating between what Banff had available to us. We knew that the Banff Gondola to the top of a nearby mountain ridge was of interest, especially with the Sky Bistro restaurant located some 7,500’ above sea level as an option for dinner. To fill the afternoon we decided to hike up the Johnston Canyon Trail to a few different waterfalls. Located about 30 minutes north of our campsite we hopped back in the car and drove with the windows down, enjoying the sunshine that soaked the world around us. The hike to the Upper Falls was about 1.5 mi and took us first through a pine forest before we began walking on a narrow steel walkway cantilevered off the edge of a vertical rock cliff. It was an exceptionally awesome experience to be walking along the side of a wall that was perpendicular to the ground below, and we stopped often to stare over the railing at the river rushing through the canyon below us. Eventually reaching the falls, Dani and I took a few photos as the spray of the waterfall soaked our clothes. The colors of the water were as gorgeous as every other river and lake we’d seen, and the pine trees offered the perfect shade to accompany the river.
 Cantilevered Walkway |  Johnston Canyon - Lower Falls |
As the afternoon crept past us we made our way back down the Johnston Canyon trail towards the car. Dani got to work on the 4G LTE enabled iPad and reserved us two tickets for the Banff Gondola ride for 19h00. The drive to the downtown area was easy enough and the clouds were wonderfully clear, giving us hope that our cable-assisted journey to the top of a mountain would gain us access to even more incredible views of the Canadian Rockies. After checking in at the base lodge and using the restrooms we got in line for our gondola. I snapped photos of a display case highlighting the cable specifications: 28mm in diameter, 3,330 meters long, weighing in at 9,490 kilograms, with a 55,000 kg breaking load… It was impressive. Dani had never been on a gondola of any kind before, so as we made our way up the side of the mountain she was excited to be suspended some hundred or so feet off the slope below us. By comparison to others I’ve been in this gondola was rather small, enough room for four people, but was exciting nonetheless. In a few minutes time we were atop Sulphur Mountain getting our first taste elevation in the region. The wind was fierce as we first stepped out on the deck, and we almost instantly turned back inside to buy Dani a knit “Canada” hat to help her keep warm. Returning outdoors we made our way across the expansive wooden deck that spans across the mountain ridge and up to the next peak’s observation tower.
 Banff Gondola |  Sulphur Mountain Walkway |
 Inside the Cosmic Ray Station |  Views from the Sky Bistro |
Checking out the first-ever weather observatory in the Rocky Mountains, constructed in 1957 and officially (and rather epically, in my opinion) called the “Sulphur Mountain Cosmic Ray Station”. Inside was a simple bunk bed for the weather observatory staff, and basic amenities for their residency. I took some photos of the scenery around us, followed by an iPhone selfie or two, and we began the long walk back across the boardwalk to the gondola/restaurant on the other side of the ridge. Exploring the historical museum & art gallery that highlights Banff’s history, we then climbed a flight of stairs to the Sky Bistro restaurant and got seated for dinner. The place was relatively quiet with only a few other customers at the bar, so I requested a table by the massive floor to ceiling windows that overlooked the mountain range across the way. Our waiter, Timo, was a local photographer and after taking our drink orders he informed us that the restaurant had in fact closed for the night. The three of us spoke for a while about the scenery, photography, and his adventures of moving across the United States over the course of the last few years. He made some suggestions of gluten-friendly restaurants in town, and Dani and I watched the sun disappear behind the distant peaks before paying our tab and walking down to the gondola loading zone. We were the last patrons to be taken down off the mountain, and spent the entire ride down enamored with the views the gondola provided.
By the time we arrived back at the Jeep it was pitch black and we were the only car left in the lot. A five minute ride into town left us at the Saint James’s Gate Olde Irish Pub where we found a great menu to choose our meals from. Service was “relaxed” and we both expressed how tired we were as we finished a delicious appetizer and moved on for our main courses. Eventually paying the bill, we drove back to our campsite at Tunnel Mountain, getting our teeth brushed and climbing into the tent just before midnight. The day had been one for the record books – up exceptionally early to watch a beautiful sunrise over gorgeous snowcapped peaks, moving on to witness the indescribable color of what is arguably the most famous lake in the Canadian Rockies, a well deserved nap, and exploration for the entire afternoon wrapped up with a gondola ride and breathtaking sunset from a 7,500’ mountain peak. It’d be hard to argue just how uniquely amazing this adventure, this “vacation”, is, but I can honestly say that there’s nowhere in the world I would rather be right now.
By the time we arrived back at the Jeep it was pitch black and we were the only car left in the lot. A five minute ride into town left us at the Saint James’s Gate Olde Irish Pub where we found a great menu to choose our meals from. Service was “relaxed” and we both expressed how tired we were as we finished a delicious appetizer and moved on for our main courses. Eventually paying the bill, we drove back to our campsite at Tunnel Mountain, getting our teeth brushed and climbing into the tent just before midnight. The day had been one for the record books – up exceptionally early to watch a beautiful sunrise over gorgeous snowcapped peaks, moving on to witness the indescribable color of what is arguably the most famous lake in the Canadian Rockies, a well deserved nap, and exploration for the entire afternoon wrapped up with a gondola ride and breathtaking sunset from a 7,500’ mountain peak. It’d be hard to argue just how uniquely amazing this adventure, this “vacation”, is, but I can honestly say that there’s nowhere in the world I would rather be right now.
Blue Hour in the Canadian Rockies
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